Saturday, January 16, 2010

Can I have info about owning a rabbit?

I just asked my parents if I could get a rabbit and they said they would think about it. I need everything everyone knows about bunnies:


What food should I get?


If someone is allergic to cat hair would they be allergic to rabbit hair?


What cages are the best to get?


What do I need to take care?


What is the best kind of rabbit to get?


Is there anything else I should know? If so, tell me EVERYTHING.


Thanks!Can I have info about owning a rabbit?
1. the brand called OXBOW is the absolute best brand of rabbit food.


Make sure you have timothy hay at all times, don't get alfalfa for your rabbit it can cause it to get a disease.





2.probably, my friend is allergic to cats and she is even more allergic to my rabbit. but if you keep everything clean, and your brush the rabbit every day it shouldn't be as much of a problem.





3.Most two story ferret cages are good. but one story works also, just make sure it is very roomy





4.-food bowl/bin


-water bottle


-hay rack


-big cage


-harness


-litter box


-litter


-bedding


-food


-timothy hay


-treats


-beds


-toys





5. any kind of rabbit you see and fall in love with i think is the best kind of rabbit. (mine is a mini rex)





6.there is alot of things you need to know before you get a rabbit. i suggest looking stuff up online and asking more specific questions, that way you get what you need to know.





If you dont find anymore answers you can e-mail me.





Hope i helped!


Can I have info about owning a rabbit?
Rabbits need a good high quality pet food. No walmart food for your critter! I use oxboy hay brand food. The other thing is they need greens everyday, and timothy hay everyday.





Rabbits need 2 hours of exercise everyday. If you litter box train your rabbit then you will need to clean out the litter box everyday. Rabbits need fresh water everyday.





If you have to get a cage, then make sure to get one without the wires on the bottom. It hurts their feet. If you do decide to get a wire caged bottom, then you will need to put something down so your rabbit can get off of the wire.





All furs are different, but i have no idea if they'll be allergic to rabbit fur. Some are. Some arent. Thats something that needs to be looked into first before adopting a rabbit.





Here is a sight that is really awesome. make sure to read and do your research fully before considering a rabbit. They take alot of time and money to take care of.





www.rabbit.org





A book that you should read is Rabbits for Dummies. I love that book. It helps you decide what breed is best for you, and a ton of other basics.





Good luck.
get one from a shelter. there are tons of amazing animals at the shelter.


youll need an appropriate sized cage for him obviously which you can find at any pet store, a water bottle , a food bowl, chew toys regular toys hay, a hiding box bedding, litter tray(because yes they can be litter box trained) a litter scooper, litter and umm lots of time and attention for the little fuzzy wuzzy lol,
Food: Grass, lots and lots of grass. And veggies. I'm including a list of good veggies for bunnies for you. Don't give your rabbit too much mint because it can try up their mucous membranes, which isn't comfortable. But my bunny loves the stuff so it's hard not to feed it too him. Also pellets, but not the sort with extra dried stuff in it like corn kernels and the like. It's too much sugar and calories for a home-bound bunny.





Allergies: don't know, but I doubt it'll be a problem. Just make sure to clean up after the little guy.





Cage: One large enough for the rabbit to stretch out to full length in and then some, especially if the rabbit is to stay in the cage most of the time. Also set it a little above the ground with a tray underneath to catch his poopies. I got my rabbit's cage at Fleet Farm.





Just make sure you have litter in the cage or let him out a lot because the wire bottom could irritate his feet. I found that litter wasn't effective at all for my rabbit because he dug and pushed it all through the cage bars until the floor was bare again.





Care: Litter training is very important if the rabbit spends any time outside of the cage. Some people follow their rabbit around and find where he relieves himself and puts the box there with some hay inside. That wasn't very practical for me, so I just put the box in a dark, safe corner and put hay in it. Instantly trained. Rabbits like to go in one spot so as to limit their scent, so training is pretty easy.





Be aware that he will probably still have the occasional accident, especially with unfixed males. I haven't had a problem with my bunny marking territory much, but when he gets on my bed he expels everything. He's either marking me as his or expressing his annoyance with me not playing with him at that exact moment. Baking soda and vinegar works great for cleaning up messes.





Best rabbit breed: Get a mutt if you can. Pure breed anything (dog, cat, horse, what-have-you) is more prone to problems than a mix breed. Mix breeds also tend to have better temperaments. Lop ears don't hear as well as normal eared rabbits, but they are just too cute for words. (My rabbit is a lop and looks so funny when he swings his ears forward to focus on something, thus covering his eyes.)





Rabbits are very social. In the wild they live in crowded warrens where they are constantly climbing over each other and sleeping on top of, under, and between all their brothers, sisters, parents, and whatever other rabbits may be in there. A lone pet rabbit can get along, but extra effort will have to be made to keep him entertained. He'll also be more likely to get lonely. I spend a lot of time at work and school and when I come home my rabbit is desperate for food and attention. And more food.





If you get two rabbits, then the cage is going to have to be bigger, of course. And it's recommended that the two rabbits be female. Or one male and one female, but then they have to be fixed or you'll end up with lots of little rabbits. (Cute as buttons but do you really want a dozen rabbits taking over your house?) It is strongly recommended *not* to get two males, as they can get very territorial, especially when they go into rut. Might not be such a problem if there aren't any females around, but if you open a window and a wild female happens to be within smelling distance things could get kinda crazy.





One thing I did to help keep my rabbit interested was provide him with a playhouse made out of cardboard boxes. Not only is it something to climb and crawl through but it's a safe haven for a shy creature and has lots of surfaces to chew on and scratch that won't get me in trouble with the landlord.





That's another thing. Bunnies chew things. A lot. Cover up electrical and phone wires or move them to a place where the rabbit can't get at them. And then cover them up anyway because rabbits can be surprisingly resourceful when it comes to getting into trouble. At least mine can. Give him safe things to chew on like cardboard and untreated wicker baskets. Wood blocks are also a good idea though mine won't touch them. He does like the occasional apple branch, though. Heck, he likes apples, period.





Oh, and you'll need a good vacuum. The rabbit will be guaranteed to track hay and pellets (both food and poop type) wherever he goes. The poop may go into the litter box initially but it will make its way outside. Be sure to clean the litter box everyday.





And find some way of dealing with all the fuzz your bunny will shed constantly. I have yet to find a brush that will work on my ball of fuzz but you may have better luck. It's more important to prevent hair balls in rabbits than in cats because rabbits can't vomit them up. Lots of fiber in the diet may prevent a hair ball even if you don't groom the rabbit, but it never hurts to be careful.





Oh, one last thing, no baths! Rabbits by and large hate water more than cats do. In fact, they do such a good job cleaning themselve

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